Blocking Guide

Why block

Fresh off the needles or hook, stitches are rarely perfectly even, lace patterns look scrunched rather than open, and edges can curl or ripple. Blocking relaxes the fibers and resets the fabric into its finished shape — often the single biggest visual improvement you can make to a piece without changing a single stitch.

What you'll need

• A flat surface you can pin into — dedicated blocking mats, a spare bed, or a folded towel on the floor all work.
• Rust-proof pins, or blocking wires for straight edges.
• A spray bottle, or a basin for a full soak, depending on method.

Wet blocking

1. Soak the piece fully in cool water for 15-20 minutes, gently pressing it under the water without agitating or wringing.
2. Lift it out and squeeze — don't twist — excess water, then roll it in a towel and press to blot out more.
3. Lay the piece flat on your blocking surface and pin it out to your intended finished measurements, easing lace or cables open as you go.
4. Let it dry fully before unpinning — this can take a day or more depending on fiber and humidity.

Steam blocking

Pin the piece to shape while dry, then hover a steam iron just above the surface without letting it touch directly, working steam evenly across the piece. Let it dry and cool completely before unpinning. This works well for animal fibers like wool, which respond well to heat and moisture, but is riskier on heat-sensitive synthetics.

Spray blocking

Pin the piece to shape while dry, then mist it evenly with water from a spray bottle until damp throughout, and let it air dry. This gentler method is the safest choice for acrylic and other synthetic yarns, which don't hold a wet or steam block permanently the way animal fibers do, but still benefit from having their stitches smoothed and evened out.