Gauge Swatch Guide

Why gauge matters

Patterns are written around a specific gauge — a certain number of stitches and rows per 4 inches (10cm). Every stitch count and shaping instruction in the pattern assumes you're getting that same gauge. Knit or crochet even slightly tighter or looser than the designer did, and the finished piece comes out a different size than expected, sometimes dramatically so over a whole garment.

How to make a swatch

1. Cast on (or chain) enough stitches to make a swatch at least 5-6 inches wide — more than the 4 inches you'll actually measure, so the edges don't distort your reading.
2. Work in the exact stitch pattern the gauge is measured in, not just plain stockinette or single crochet, if the pattern specifies a textured stitch.
3. Work at least 5-6 inches of rows for the same edge-distortion reason.
4. Bind off or fasten off, then treat the swatch the way you'll treat the finished piece — if you plan to block the final project, block the swatch too before measuring.

How to measure

1. Lay the swatch flat on a table without stretching or compressing it.
2. Using a ruler or tape measure, mark out a 4 inch (10cm) span in the center of the swatch, well away from the edges.
3. Count the stitches across that span, including partial stitches as fractions.
4. Repeat vertically to count rows over the same 4 inch span.

If your gauge doesn't match

Compare your stitch count to the pattern's stated gauge over the same 4 inches:

• More stitches than the pattern means your stitches are smaller and tighter than the designer's — go up a needle or hook size to loosen up.
• Fewer stitches than the pattern means your stitches are bigger and looser than the designer's — go down a needle or hook size to tighten up.

Re-swatch after adjusting, since needle or hook size changes don't always shift gauge by a predictable amount. If you'd rather work at your own gauge and adjust the pattern's numbers instead of your tools, the gauge calculator will do that math for you.